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Chapter 8, The Human Touch

What is the human touch in hospitality?


The human touch is the discipline of noticing the particular guest in front of you, registering what they need at this moment, and acting on it so they feel seen as a person rather than processed as an account. It is the one quality the leaders I interviewed agree cannot be taught.

The phrase has been used in hotel marketing so often that it has nearly stopped meaning anything. So it is worth being precise. In the operating definition the eighty hoteliers and chefs I interviewed described, the human touch is not generic warmth. The broad smile, the welcome champagne and the note under the door at turndown are visible artifacts of the quality, and a property can produce all of them without possessing it. The quality itself is narrower. It is the discipline of noticing the specific guest in front of you, registering what they actually need right now, and acting on that noticing in a way that makes them feel seen.

Three stories from the interviews show the difference between the cliché and the substance. Susanne Hatje, then general manager of Mandarin Oriental, New York, told me about a couple who decided on a whim to marry at the Ladies Pavilion in Central Park. The hotel arranged a justice of the peace, a photographer and a horse and carriage on the day. What the couple will remember is that the hotel’s chief concierge, Kenneth Abisror, stood as their witness. At Le Royal Monceau in Paris, Aaron Kaupp’s team noticed that a solo business traveler, recently engaged, was missing her fiancé. While she was at dinner they filled her room with a hundred helium balloons, each carrying his photograph. Graham Ledger, then general manager of Singita, described a quieter version: a guest who regularly orders a gin and tonic will find the drink in the box their guide carries on a game drive, or will come upon a surprise gin bar at the bush dinner.

The pattern across all three is the same. Generic noticing produces generic service. Specific noticing produces the moment a guest tells friends about for twenty years. The team at Le Royal Monceau did not pamper a lonely traveler in a general way. They identified the exact source of her loneliness and answered it.

“Today, we can teach someone to shake the perfect martini or to read a profit and loss statement, but what we cannot teach is the human touch, and being a people person.” Aaron Kaupp, then general manager of Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris

The second half of that sentence is what every subject in the book repeated to me without being asked. Almost every other quality a hospitality leader needs can be acquired. Leading by example can be modeled. Empowerment can be practiced. A standard of perfection can be installed as a posture. The human touch is the exception. It arrives with the candidate or it does not arrive at all, which is why Pinar Kartal Timer, then general manager of Pera Palace Hotel, Jumeirah, interviewed every person hired into the hotel regardless of position. In twenty minutes she could read the one thing no resume would tell her.

The chef’s version is the same discipline at a different scale. Patrick O’Connell of The Inn at Little Washington described his work in terms a hotelier would not reach for, and yet the operating practice beneath it is identical.

“I regard my work as a healing art form.” Patrick O’Connell, chef, The Inn at Little Washington

The diner who arrives exhausted from a hard week gets a different evening from the diner who arrives celebrating, and the kitchen and the floor calibrate that together. At n/naka in Los Angeles, Niki Nakayama’s brigade adjusts the pace of a kaiseki progression to each table. The guest lingering over the third course finds the fourth slightly delayed. Nobody announces it. The meal is being eaten by individuals rather than by covers, and the operation behaves accordingly.

Chapter 8, The Human Touch, defines the quality, shows how the best operators hire for it, sets out the conditions that erode it and the technology that helps or erases it, and asks what happens when the leader who embodies it most fully is no longer in the room.