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Key idea

The human touch

The one quality every hotelier and chef says cannot be taught, and matters most.


The human touch is the discipline of noticing the particular guest in front of you, registering what they actually need at this moment, and acting on that noticing so the guest feels seen as a person rather than processed as an account. Every operator in the book names it as the one quality that cannot be taught and matters most.

This is the chapter every subject in the book gave me a version of without being asked. Hoteliers in Sydney and Istanbul and chefs in Virginia and Los Angeles, people who have never met one another, said the same thing in nearly the same words: almost everything else in the craft can be acquired, and this cannot. Aaron Kaupp, then running Le Royal Monceau in Paris, put it in the cleanest sentence I was given.

“Today, we can teach someone to shake the perfect martini or to read a profit and loss statement, but what we cannot teach is the human touch, and being a people person.” Aaron Kaupp, then General Manager, Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris

In a hotel the human touch looks like what Kaupp’s team did for a guest traveling alone on business, recently engaged and missing her fiancé. While she was out at dinner the staff filled her bedroom with a hundred helium balloons, each carrying a photograph of the man she was going to marry. The gesture reads as preposterous on the page and was, in the room, exactly right, because the team had identified the specific source of her loneliness rather than pampering a solo traveler in a generic way. In a kitchen it looks like Niki Nakayama’s room at n/naka, where the brigade reads each diner’s pace across a long kaiseki progression and delays or brings forward the next course accordingly. The diners never see the calibration. They only know the meal felt right for the evening they were having.

The phrase has been used so often in marketing that it has nearly lost its meaning, and it is worth saying what it is not. It is not warmth in general. The broad smile, the welcome champagne and the note at turndown are the visible artifacts of the quality, and a property can produce all of them without possessing it. What distinguishes the human touch from templated personalization is the specificity of the response to the person. A gin and tonic added to a guest’s drink box for the game drive at Singita works because of where Singita is. The same data point in a city hotel calls for a different gesture.

What the idea asks of a leader is twofold. The first task is hiring, since the trait arrives with the candidate or does not arrive at all, which is why Marc von Arnim listens for applicants who speak from the heart and Pinar Kartal Timer interviewed every hire herself. The second task is protection, because the human touch erodes under conditions a leader often creates with good intentions. A culture of fear erodes it. Exhaustion erodes it. The team member left to absorb difficult guests and impatient owners without the leader’s interposition will, over months, close down into a defensive posture that is the opposite of what the work requires. The hire is an acquisition; the conditions are an ongoing investment.

The idea runs through Chapter 8, The Human Touch, and underpins Chapter 4, First the Team, where the hiring practices that find it are described, and Chapter 12, The Digital Discipline, which draws the line between technology that extends it and technology that erases it.